Lupinus albus (white lupin) seed extract

A proprietary lupin seed extract, trade named Collageneer®, that serves as a multi-benefit firming active by stimulating synthesis of a high-quality collagen in the skin. it has remarkable anti-inflammatory abilities, anti-cancer qualities, and it effectively increases skin elasticity to firm and remodel the facial contour. this extract is specially synthesized to yield an ester known as lupeol, a pharmacologically active pentacyclic triterpenoid. lupeol is extracted from the coatings of sweet white lupin seeds in a patented process and holds the trade name Collageneer®.

Lupeol is an active molecule that increases the synthesis of Collagen 1 and HSP 47 (Heat Shock Protein), a “chaperone” protein that facilitates collagen production. A clinical study showed the firmness of the skin improved by 92% and the sagging of the facial contour reduced by 72% after 42 days.1 It also shows promise for treatment of skin damage, including thermal, chemical and radiation burns.2 

Lupeol has shown promise as a chemo preventative, meaning it may help slow the development of cancerous skin cells.3 Last but not least, lupeol is a potent anti-inflammatory and may help reduce visible signs of skin conditions such as eczema and acne.4, 5

  1. Collageneer® by Laboratoires Expanscience – Personal Care & Cosmetics. (2020). Retrieved March 2020, from https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/3036/91617/Collageneer
  2. Malinowska M, Miroslaw B, Sikora E, Ogonowski J, Wojtkiewicz AM, Szaleniec M, et al. (2019) New lupeol esters as active substances in the treatment of skin damage. PLoS ONE 14(3): e0214216. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0214216
  3. Saleem, M., Afaq, F., Adhami, V., & Mukhtar, H. (2004). Lupeol modulates NF-κB and PI3K/Akt pathways and inhibits skin cancer in CD-1 mice. Oncogene, 23(30), 5203-5214. doi: 10.1038/sj.onc.1207641
  4. Lucetti, D., Lucetti, E., Bandeira, M., Veras, H., Silva, A., & Leal, L. et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory effects and possible mechanism of action of lupeol acetate isolated from Himatanthus drasticus (Mart.) Plumel. Journal Of Inflammation7(1), 60. doi: 10.1186/1476-9255-7-60
  5. Kwon, H., Yoon, J., Park, S., Min, S., Kim, Y., & Park, J. et al. (2015). Activity-Guided Purification Identifies Lupeol, a Pentacyclic Triterpene, As a Therapeutic Agent Multiple Pathogenic Factors of Acne. Journal Of Investigative Dermatology135(6), 1491-1500. doi: 10.1038/jid.2015.29

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

The Powerful Vitamin C Derivative for Skincare

What is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a form of vitamin C that is soluble in lipids, or fats, rather than water. This makes it a much more stable form of vitamin C than other derivatives and less likely to oxidize or deteriorate over time. When used in skincare products, it can penetrate the skin more effectively and provide more sustained benefits.

Benefits of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Antioxidant Protection

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and contribute to aging. By neutralizing free radicals, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can help to prevent damage to the skin and promote a more youthful appearance.

Brightening and Lightening

Vitamin C is well known for its ability to brighten and lighten the skin, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is no exception. It can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots, age spots, and hyperpigmentation, leaving skin looking more even and radiant.

Collagen Production

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can also help to boost collagen production, which is important for maintaining the skin’s firmness and elasticity. Collagen is a protein that is naturally produced in the body and helps to give skin its structure, but its production decreases with age. By boosting collagen production, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and keep skin looking youthful.

Anti-Inflammatory Properties

In addition to its antioxidant properties, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate also has anti-inflammatory properties. This can help to soothe irritated skin and reduce redness, making it ideal for those with sensitive skin or skin that is prone to breakouts.

Why Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is Ideal for Skincare Serums

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is particularly well-suited for use in skincare serums because of its lipid-solubility. This means that it can penetrate the skin more effectively, providing more sustained benefits. Unlike water-soluble forms of vitamin C, which can be rapidly broken down by the skin, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate remains stable for longer and can provide longer-lasting benefits.

In addition, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is less likely to cause irritation than other forms of vitamin C. This makes it a good choice for those with sensitive skin or skin that is prone to irritation. Serums are also ideal for delivering high concentrations of active ingredients, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, directly to the skin. This allows for maximum efficacy and can help to achieve noticeable results faster.

Using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in Skincare Serums

When using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in a serum it is important to look for a product that contains a high concentration of this ingredient. A concentration of 2% or higher is ideal for achieving maximum benefits. It is also important to store the serum in a cool, dry place, as light and heat can cause the ingredient to deteriorate over time.

In terms of application, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can be used in the morning and evening after cleansing and toning. Simply apply a few drops your serum to the face and neck and massage it into the skin.


In conclusion, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a highly effective form of vitamin C that can provide numerous benefits for the skin. Its lipid-solubility makes it ideal for use in our serum, as it allows for maximum penetration and sustained benefits. By using a product that contains a high concentration of this ingredient, it is possible to achieve brighter, smoother, and more youthful-looking skin.

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